Friday, August 2, 2013

Cacao Continued


A hen protects the seeds germinating below
I got to visit the CEIBO plant with David and others in Sapecho on Thursday.  It smelled better than anything industrial I have ever smelled except perhaps the Malto-meal factory when the winds would blow from the south toward Carleton.  What smelled so good was the fermenting and drying cacao beans—like a slightly sour chocolate, very hard to describe really and probably not worth it.   This was actually the last and most visible step of the cacao preparation process.  It was quite a processing plant.    All of the cacao that CEIBO produces—over 6million dollars in sales (which makes it the largest producer in Bolivia) passes through this plant's warehouse—most of it gets fermented and dried here as well.  But that is only the base of the pyramid that has by now grown to mammoth proportions.  CEIBO runs a seed bank, plant nursery and research area, as well as an actual lending bank all for the benefit of it's many members.
Moniliasis--the epidemic destroying cacao harvests



The seed bank and nursery are run by Bambi, Ana Maria's daughter, who is an agro-forestry expert.  They not only keep and produce cacao plants, but also many varieties of fruiting and lumber tree species that can co-exist with cacao production.  Saturday I was able to work in the nursery seeding new cacao plants of which they have tens of thousands, and got to see how these funny plants get their start. 




A recently sprouted cacao plant.  That seed stays attached for a while
Over this time I have also learned a good deal about the economics of agricultural production in the Alto Beni and Caranavi, in general.  From a broad perspective, most plots of land are about 10 hectares, which is fairly large.  If planted with cacao, this usually does not make up more than 50% of the land.  In fact, cacao is less profitable than papaya for instance, and has around the same margin currently as coffee—and with labor prices high here, a land owner makes a small margin indeed on any agricultural product.  That coupled with the fact that cacao and coffee are single-season crops, has led to increased desire for diversification.  Economics however are not the only thing pushing cacao producers toward other crops, Moniliasis, or Monilia as it is known widely has infected the area.  This plague can wipe out entire crops, greatly reducing the productivity of a region.  But Monilia is like almost no human plague—no medicine exists, organic or conventional, to control it.  Varieties that are resistant are either of lower quality (CC51) or produce little (though delicious) fruit (Creole).  And planting new cacao means waiting between 4 and 6 years before producing—feeding the inertia of any agricultural system.  It is a problem that at meetings with local cooperatives I heard voiced forcefully and repeatedly.  It is a conundrum. 

There were thousands of plants.
Meanwhile, back in Caranavi I await a organics fair known as Bio Caranavi where Diane (of Artesania Sorata) is presenting a water turbine for use on small farms in the area.  Yumm I can smell the fried chicken even from my hostel window.  At least lodging is cheap. 

An Accidental Homestay in Cacaoland



David cuting open some cacao
The result, suculent, sweet fresh cacao.  




The road toward Caranavi is as I remember it.  Though over two years have passed since last I bounced along it, it seems the same hairpin curves and precipitous falls dot the path from La Paz down into the region called the Yungas.  A long five hour ride bypassing what used to be the “world's most dangerous road” (now only open to bicycle traffic) winds past Coroico, the beautiful mountaintop town, continuing its circuitous 3300meter drop to the dusty working town of Caranavi.  This is the service center of a vast region which grows everything and anything including delicious cacao and Bolivia's most sought after coca.  The town itself is populated by prodigious chicken-eaters and car mechanics. Never has a chicken pecked its way into town that was not promptly fried and served on a plate of rice.  Nor has a broken down car coming from La Paz ever been disappointed by the sight of the fifty or more mechanic shops forming the gauntlet that is the entrance to town.  But this market town full of revelers on a Wednesday night was not our final destination.  The bumpy road continues on, and we followed it past Sapecho and on to Palos Blancos where I am currently sitting writing surrounded by dinosaur toys, and game consoles. 

Aldaid with his beloved pods--he sometimes had 10 in his arms.


My path here was as unpredicted as the road was uncomfortable. I met Ana Maria in Atesania Sorata, the store from which I buy most of our alpaca knitwear.  Within minutes we were talking about a  visit to the organic herb cooperative she supports through her NGO and her family's cacao farm.  Plans were made and two weeks later here I find myself.  The plans however never did include who I would stay with, or what I would be doing.  She was going on vacation back to her family plot where her daughter was tending the cacao, and I was accompanying her.  Unwittingly, as it seems most things are here in Bolivia, I have become their guests and could not be happier.  The family is well educated, having made their living from being part of El CEIBO, the nation's cacao association which is made up of over 50 cooperatives each with an average of 35 members bringing it's member population to well over 1000.  Ana Maria and her daughter, as members of El CEIBO are currently attending an assembly o all the cooperatives, while I accompany David (the daughter's husband) on his tasks as an agro-forestry consultant—they hire someone to tend their plot of cacao.  Although I haven't yet visited the cacoa plantation I am looking forward to doing so tomorrow. 
Piles of harvested cacao pods
 I should be here until the 28th when we head back to Caranavi.  Although I don't much like the prospect, I have two days of waiting there before Diane and Ron (of Artesania Sorata) come to join me to present at the town's annual fair.